THE FIFE COASTAL PATH
PART 6
ABERDOUR TO kIRKCALDY
Silver Sands, Aberlour looking toward Hawcraig Point
For many people, Aberdour is the Sands and the FCP route takes you there. Leaving the harbour means crossing the burn and heading up to Hawcraig Point, another of those militarised areas that speckle the Forth. As a naval base, it was named HMS Tarlair. These days it is an outstanding viewpoint with views towards the of the bridges, the Lothian Shore and the Silver Sands.
18 Jan 2020
First off, eating at the Cafe at the Silver Sands is a good idea. These folks are friendly and welcoming, and the food is good. The views are good. A good place to start the day.
Except of course that carol had picked me up from Aberdour the last time so we took part of the next leg together, leaving the car at Aberdour, and walking on over to Burntisland beside the railway and the Forth. We had a talk with the wildlife on the way, it being sunshine afternoon, calm and clear: we were visited by an inquisitive seal. I know that seals are supposed to be attracted to people singing but as my grandaughter insists that I don’t sing, and I am assured that I can’t hold a note, I tried talking, So I spoke to the seal who appeared interested for a while, but then swam off. probably tea-time.
Above: Looking back to Aberdour
Top left: Carol by the SilverCafe
So, an evening walk from Aberdour to Burntisland, complete with seal.
For the most part, the path runs between the railway and the sea. The north side of the Firth of Forth is often characterised by stretches of escarpment where the river sits below the waters. The walk to Burntisland follows the escarpment, trees gripping on to steep slopes with the railway below. The 19th Century was the railway age, with transport and travel being revolutionised until the rise of the motor car. That century of railways allowed travel and and commerce to revolutionise a society. Coal was dug in the mines running along the Forth and dispersed to fire industry, building a the industrial and changing society. The railways still run, but the railways and trains are fewer now. But justice is better done by the Burntisland Heritage Group…..
The walk to Burntisland does not take the walker along the railway tracks: apparently this is frowned on. However, this FCP makes frequent use of railway trackbeds, and though the railway runs along the coast only as far as Kirkcaldy, the old coastal line ran up to St Andrews, although in latter days Crail was the usual terminal of the Fifeshire Coastal Express. Thomas, J., 1981. Forgotten Railways Scotland. 2nd ed. Newton Abbott: David and Charles.
By necessity, the walkway passes under the railway so we walked between the escarpment and the railway , a kind of no man’s land with a wall to prevent straing on to the railway. The escarpment gave way to grassland in which stood a large house, according to my map, Bendameer House. In plain view. So on the bus back we saw the front. See a lot from buses. I digress. The signing continues to be good, and we took the snicket as requried. The map suggested a castle but we missed it: we carried on to the High Street and the bus stop. Job done. And we caught the bus back to Aberdour.
Passing under the railway
Next stop, Burntisland
Burntisland
Fife Railways, then and now
I picked up where we’d left off: on the green at Burntisland, A place of abundance and luxury, Car park. Free. Toilets. Well kept. Chip shop, conveniently placed. I didn’t bother with the chippy.
I like Burntisland. It’s silly: the railway cuts the town off from the Forth and you need to go over a bridge to get to the swimming pool and the funfair. And the beach begins a huge sweep so you look acroos the bay to where you are walking to. And it has a proper prom. With passages that go under the railway.