THE FIFE COASTAL PATH
PART 16
st andrews
to tayport
1 December 2019.
So, we found ourselves at the Royal and Ancient (having left the girls in St Andrews) ready for what promised to be a fairly grim “walking by the road” stretch out to Guardbridge. Happily, it was a clear, cold Scottish day, just what the gruesome twosome had ordered.
In the absence of significant change in the landscape, pleasant though it was and with little else to do, we talked. The content was a tad more serious than the usual banter. Things to do with the ways of the world. Neil and I are good friends. It is helpful to know that Neil’s wife Mo has never been able to quite understand why the relationship works. Over the years, it just has been a thing that continues because it does. We get on; why is not an issue. Neil’s an ex-welder, now a school janitor. Me, I’m a retired social worker. I’m East Anglian English; he’s Geordie. I’m very well-educated, so of little apparent practical use. Neil fixes things; he is useful.
Generally, Neil takes a good picture. He will not be allowed to forget this one.
We see things differently and also the same. On the day, we walked into a discussion about the state of the world as it is. Neil is a strong leave voter; me, I’m pro-europe and in deep mourning. I’ve not quite worked out whether Neil knows this, (but he does now). Neil has a fairly traditional view of the way that children are raised, and has little truck with the nurturing, caring and gentling role that adults in professions such as teaching and social work are required to demonstrate these days. I also struggle with a lot of that direction of flow. I do wonder whether 37 years as a practicing. qualified social worker actually made any kind of difference. That’s a hard pill to swallow. I also have a certain sympathy for Neil’s “common sense” views. I was amused by and sympathetic to Neil’s response to the restorative justice strategy suggested to him by a social worky person. Not a meeting of minds. He was shocked by Neil’s response to the suggestion of a formal apology by a kid who’d committed some pretty serious vandalism round the school(he isn’t at the school) i.e. no chance. I thought Neil had a point: restorative justice is quite counter-intuitive and RJ needs to take into account the norm is a “common sense” reality even if common sense isn’t so common.
And so, in the last month of 2019, facing a radical shake up to the way the country in general is being run, a walk on a beautiful day with a mate was good.
So we walked from St Andrews to Guardbridge along the A91. The A91 is an old toll road and the the route boasts an old toll house called, cunningly, “The Toll House”. Cars sweep by, but the reminders of a less frenetic pace of life remain.
The Toll House between Guardbridge and St Andrews
The bridge at Guardbridge crosses the River Eden and was on one of the old Pilgrim routes to St Andrews. The old bridge sits beside pillars that once supported the railway from St Andrews in the days when steam was the way to travel. The township itself is situated on the River Eden with the paper mill standing on the west bank of the river.
*Top Left: View North from the Bridge * Top Right: Guardbridge Inn from bridge Bttm Left: Neil apporaches the Bridge Bttm Middle: Mill Clock Bttm Right: Guardbridge Paper Mill
So we headed North and met Dog 3: Maggie. I spoke to her: she loved me for life. I suspect anyone who faintly hinted there may be food would be so honoured. We headed north through the houses and followed the line of the Seggie on which, in former times was the site of the hostelry for pilgrims pilgrimaging. Big business. Interesting things churches. I had a sermon preached at me once. That was fun. The route passes over a (now) footbridge over the Moonzie Burn which flows into the Eden and then enters a pleasantish council estate with a decent playpark.
There were signs that walkers may not be wanted…..
We continued towards Leuchars
Leuchars is a somewhat iconic, with its association with the cold war and incursions into UK airspace by Soviet Long range bombers. It was famous when operational for its air display, with the sea and the Eden estuary offering clear views. On a good day. Leuchars was the front line. It now serves as an Army base.
Leuchars: a right old mixed bag.
The FCP route runs through the centre of the administration area of Leuchars Station with forbidding notices warning of trespass and taking pictures. We avoided being caught…. but I’m not sure much would have happened.
RSDG Hat band, and decoration for track suit as worn by…..
The Royal Scots Dragoon Guards are a major contingent.
As Neil commented, it wasn’t a very coastal walk.